Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: ‘From the good old roast to vegan fare, Brabazon is superb’

It’s had considerable improvements and additions, so our critic couldn’t wait to get back to Tankardstown House in Co Meath

"I chose a fillet of pan-fried sea bass, which arrived perfectly seared, resting on a bed of chickpea emulsion with fine chorizo dice, and topped with a blaze of red and green piperade." Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Lucinda O'Sullivan

Throughout the lockdowns, many hotels and restaurants developed their businesses with an eye to the future, creating more space and outdoor areas. God bless their optimism, because it can’t have been easy lashing out money when there was none coming in. But then, I always think of hospitality professionals as theatricals. The curtain goes up and the show must go on. Sure, you have the prancing and preening ones, the moody blues, the too-cool-for-school hipsters, and that’s only the GMs and restaurateurs — once you get into the kitchen, they all think they’re Gordon Ramsay — but that’s why it’s such a colourful industry.

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